Kemtron

Kemtron GP-7 Handrails and Dummy Trucks

This model has been sitting in my group of things to do for years. Probably an eBay purchase, the original builder took this vintage Kemtron kit to the point of being nearly complete, but there were no handrails and the drive was in not great shape. I wanted to complete it and decorate it in the ATSF “bookend” or “pin-stripe” scheme.

The engine needed handrails and working trucks! Having just finished the switcher handrails, I was not moving my shop from that setup until this Geep was done too!

Handrails, part I

The holes were drilled (inconsistently) on the sides of the engine but not at all on the ends. On the switchers, I had drilled the end holes by hand. On this engine, it’s a thick brass casting — I was not doing all that with a pin vice. I decided to try to use my Dremel tool, setting up the frame very solidly in my vice. I’ve avoided using the Dremel for small holes like this due to the potential to break drills. As it turned out, I didn’t break any doing these holes, but I did break drills later.

With those holes drilled I was ready to make railings! But, quickly, I discovered the 5/8″ A-Line stanchions I had been using were too tall. They needed to match the drawings and my two Orient GP-7s.

The drawing is part of the original Kemtron instructions.

After some puzzling I decided the best plan was to shorten the A-Line stanchions, and I worked out a way to do that consistently. But while I puzzled I moved on to the dummy trucks.

TYCO based dummy trucks

I don’t know if you have been to a train show and ever looked at the TYCO GP-20 and F unit, but the older version has a power truck that can be modified for OO, and the dummy truck on the other end can totally be modified for OO.

Backing up a few steps though, my original idea was to use the drive that was with this engine to power my dummy Orient GP-7 and make this a dummy Santa Fe engine using the Kemtron truck setup from that engine. After a lot of testing and fiddling around, I finally figured out the smarter move was to leave the Orient engine as it was and make this a dummy too.

First step is to take the truck apart. You’ll have to file off the nibs that hold the bottom plate on, and then drill and tap holes to hold a bottom plate on.

With it apart, I got out my supply of orphan OO Diesel wheels. I found a set of 5 matching wheels that fit the dummy trucks perfectly, but they had (worn) gears on them. I could have cracked the gears off, but then I’m thinking who knows, maybe I’ll want them someday. So instead I finally figured out I could use the bottom plates from powered trucks, of which I had several laying around.

Also in the photo you can see the TYCO sideframes. They are a little off in details but the correct length for OO and will look fine on the finished model.

At this point you have to figure out a way to mount the dummy trucks. You basically have to use the system TYCO set up. I made a bracket from brass for one end and used an original TYCO F unit bracket on the motor end.

Bottom view makes it clearer.

Back to handrails

And then there was the matter of handrails. I’ve mentioned this before, I don’t like making handrails, but they are a really necessary detail. To bend them is not hard. I used as mentioned modified A-Line stanchions and also 22 gauge half-hard brass wire.

The ends I had to eyeball (trying to match the style of an Athearn HO GP-7), while on the sides I could use the Kemtron drawing.

The engineers side, the original holes were a bit off and I could only correct for it so much. When I had things set I soldered the frame to railings (brass to brass). The stanchions are super-glued in place, and the connections to the cab are loose — because otherwise you can’t remove the body from the frame.

And that is where things are now. I will glue the sideframes in place later. The body has been washed for painting (plus you need to remove any soldering flux quickly) and I’ll likely do the primer soon. But I don’t have yellow paint right now, it will be a few weeks before I get to masking and painting. When the engine is done I’ll post a followup article.