A bit of Momentum toward a 2-8-0
I recently got some momentum going on several projects. The gas stations are nearly done (more soon) and I got the frame together on the Nason 2-8-0 project.
The big problem was that the frame that I have to use (as seen in part I of this series) had both ends hacked off — as part of a prior owner using the frame on an On3 engine.
I have the instructions and one nice thing is that the drawings are to scale. What I had to do was cut an extension for the rear of the frame out of bar stock and also make the entire front end somehow.
I opted to modify the front of what had been originally I believe a brass/bronze HO 2-8-2 frame, modified for OO, but not really suitable for any project I had in mind.
Front end first, as part of the hacking done to the original frame, the slot for the cylinder block was filed about 1/16″ lower than standard. The solution was to modify the HO frame to sit down in that slot, resize the front deck, and solder it with a torch — adding also a spacer to hold the cylinder block from the front end.
I also soldered the back end with a torch and soldered on the frame extension pieces. This option is mentioned in the instructions, and the frame is rock solid!
Wanting to see how it looked with the drivers and cylinder block, I set up this final photo. The drivers are the On3 drivers; I’m banking on the engine operating so well that you don’t notice the drivers too much. I’ll keep following the steps as described in the instructions, hopefully some real progress will be made in the coming months. A lot of drilling and tapping is in my future ….
John, the metal is always nice to work with on Nason and the soldering is tedious but nice. The models were made to last!!
Are you using silver solder or a solder with less amount of tin in it? I use a lot 0f 60/40 for wiring. This should be a fun project but takes time and patience. Good luck, Rocky Sullivan.
As my “other” hobby is working on/rebuilding French horns, I presently use a solder that is lead free and has a small percentage of silver in it. I used to use 50/50 solder all the time. I also have true silver solder for special situations, but that requires very high temperatures and a special flux.
Thanks John for the soldering information. Yes, I heard you need like a torch to melt the old time True Silver solder. I hear that it holds really good and looks very nice, especially I am sure, on a French Horn joint. I love great musical instruments! Rocky Sullivan.
It is a really good idea to switch away from lead solder. What I use is Stay-Brite silver-bearing solder. Usage feels the same as traditional solder but it is stronger as well.
Nice work on the 2_8_0 frame, I did a lot of work on the Nason frames way back then. be careful when taping the metal in those frames is hard and the cylinders as well.